Tsumago: Road to Tomorrow, Tsumago, Nagano Prefecture, Japan, Tsumago Preservation Foundation, 2001

Foreword

The town of Tsumago is well known to Japanese, together with the town of Magome, through Shimazaki Toson's novel Yoakemae (Before the Dawn), indisputably a masterpiece of Japanese historical fiction.

Toson, however, did not write this novel simply because of his interest in history. The main character is modelled after Shimazaki Masaki, Toson's father, who was the head of the Magome honjin and an enthusiastic proponent of Kokugaku (National Learning) as postulated by Hirata Atsutane. Shimazaki Masaki could not go along with the historical current after the Meiji Restoration and went insane. He was confined to one room in his home. It could be said that Toson wrote Yoakemae as a requiem for his father. Sorrow permeates the novel. Toson must have experienced another sadness as well in his feelings for his birthplace. This sadness was associated with his immoral conduct with his niece Komako which he described in Shinsei (New Life).

The title Shinsei was chosen by Toson who had probably contemplated suicide; he felt he could not continue to live without confessing his seduction of his niece. I feel that this dark event cast a large shadow over Yoakemae.

One summer around 1960, I stayed in Tsumago. I chose Tsumago as I wanted to avoid the stifling heat of Kyoto and study in the cool environment of Kiso. I still have warm memories of the kindness extended to me by the residents of Kiso. Oyufu of Oguroya, Toson's first love, was still alive and Komako lived quietly in the detached quarters of a Tsumago residence. I met Komako. She was beautiful, graceful and reserved. I hated Toson who, by exposing their liaison in Shinsei, had forced Komako to live in the shadows.

Last summer, I spent a few days at Gero Hot Springs with my wife and grandchild. From Gero, I made a day trip by car to Tsumago, my first visit in almost 40 years. Tsumago's facade has been preserved as a cultural property and the town bustled with tourists. I reminisced about the rustic Tsumago I had encountered 40 years earlier.

The painter of this book, Tsumago: Road to Tomorrow, is Shimazaki Hiroshi. He is a great- grandson of Shimazaki Hirosuke, the last head of Tsumago honjin. Hirosuke was the second son of Shimazaki Masaki and thus a brother of Toson. Hirosuke was adopted by the Shimazaki family of Tsumago honjin, his mother's family. Hisa and Komako were his daughters. They moved to Tokyo where they lived with their widowed uncle, Toson, and looked after his children. Hisa also attended school. Later, she married a diplomat, Tanaka Bunichiro, and went abroad with him. Shimazaki Hiroshi is the grandson of Hisa and Bunichiro.

Upon graduating from university, Shimazaki Hiroshi worked briefly for Oki Electric Industry. After resigning from the company, he studied cultural geography in Canada. He is now a Canadian citizen and has written a variety of interesting books including Central America: World Corridor. Shimazaki spent part of 1998 in Kyoto, Japan, as a Visiting Professor at the International Research Center for Japanese Studies. Among other things, he participated in a series of interdisciplinary seminars organized by Professor Senda Minoru. As well, he completed a sketch book entitled Living Kyoto in which he captured various Kyoto scenes. I understand that while he was in Kyoto he visited Tsumago for the first time, and was captivated by the town. Compared with the Kyoto sketches, the Tsumago sketches are very dark in appearance. While lighter colours were used extensively in the Kyoto scenes, darker colours, particularly shades of muddy blue, are dominant in many of the Tsumago paintings. Why is this the case?

I think it is because of his lineage. A poet's blood flows in Shimazaki Hiroshi's veins as it did in Toson's. And when Shimazaki Hiroshi visited Tsumago, the birthplace of his grandmother and Komako, he must have felt deep in his heart the sorrow that has tainted Tsumago. It appears that throughout his life Toson felt that he was an eternal traveller. Hiroshi, even more than Toson, must feel that he is a traveller. Just as Toson's profound novel, Yoakemae, is a crystallization of the former travellers's attachment to his birthplace, these sketches are the crystallization of the contemporary traveller's affection for his ancestral home. These works of art impress upon the viewer the artist's deep ties to his roots.

Tohyama Takashi, whose word pictures harmonize with the watercolours, was once a student at Ritsumeikan University where I taught. His succinct descriptions precisely portray Tsumago's past. I believe a fine book has come into being.

Umehara Takeshi
Adviser, International Research Center for Japanese Studies, Kyoto, Japan


Preface

This collection of landscapes in watercolour and words, created to welcome the new millennium and commemorate the 400th anniversary of the emergence of the Nakasendo highway, opens a shining treasure chest of nature and culture: Tsumago, Japan.

Tsumago, now a community within Nagiso town, lies within the southern Kiso district, which is located in the southern part of Nagano prefecture, surrounded by green mountains and intersected by the Kiso River. From earliest times forest preservation practices have been observed throughout southern Kiso. Through the provision of wood for the construction of Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, palaces and castles, this region has long supported Japan's spiritual culture and its political and economic centres. Penetrating this land of supreme beauty, the Nakasendo highway linking Edo (Tokyo) with the region just east of Kyoto was constructed during the Edo period (1600-1868). With the development of the highway, Tsumago acquired the functions and facade of a post-town to support the feudal system. Today, centering on Tsumago which was the first Japanese community to be designated as a historical preservation district, area preservation efforts with an international perspective are underway.

The future of the global society rests on the wisdom of the succeeding generations. A prerequisite for the nurture of individuals blessed with healthy minds and healthy bodies is the creation of a society where regional economic development and the preservation of natural and cultural heritages are well balanced. Tsumago is the embodiment of this ideal. Here the classic natural beauty and the spiritual fabric of Japan are maintained. The people of Nagiso town are firm in their determination to pass on to those who will succeed them an improved living environment as they strive towards the development and maintenance of a community with strong links to its past and a bright future ahead. In this book the attempt has been made, by those whose roots are in Tsumago, to read the history of their ancestors' interaction with the environment in the contemporary landscape and to record it through brush and pen.

To the amateur paintings of this geographer, a local historian, Tohyama Takashi, has added lively descriptions. Together we are indebted to the well-known philosopher, Umehara Takeshi, for his insightful foreword. This project, endorsed by the Tsumago Preservation Foundation, could not have come to fruition without the understanding and cooperation of many individuals within and outside Nagiso town.

I am especially indebted to the members of the Katsuno family for the countless kindnesses extended to me on successive visits to Tsumago. Throughout the project I received assistance from numerous individuals in the form of transportation, accommodation and the provision of information and photographs. These people, together with those who assisted with editing, translating, printing, publishing and marketing are listed at the end of the book. Mr. Tohyama and I are grateful to all of them for their many contributions to the successful completion of this project. The Chinese translation of the text has been prepared by the Yaoshan Cultural Foundation in Taiwan, which has long-standing ties with the Tsumago Preservation Foundation. I have supplied the English translation.

Shimazaki Hiroshi
Professor, University of Lethbridge, Canada

Note: Personal names follow the traditional Japanese order with surnames preceding given names Kojun (visit the old and learn anew) is the gago (painting name) of Shimazaki Hiroshi. It is this name that is on the stamp that appears on each painting.



Epilogue

Shimazaki Tanaka Hiroshi is the great grandson of Shimazaki Hirosuke, the last head of the Tsumago honjin. Tanaka Bunichiro, the husband of his grandmother Shimazaki Hisa and a diplomat stationed in Russia/USSR, came to know of the existence of Katsuno Kinmasa of Tsumago, who was wrongly detained by the government of the USSR from 1930 to 1934, and acted for the release and return of Katsuno to Japan. It can be said that it was the "Tsumago connection" that saved Katsuno's life in the USSR.

Years passed and in the summer of 1999 (Heisei 11), Shimazaki Hiroshi visited Tsumago accompanied by Katsuno's eldest daughter Inada Akiko. For Shimazaki, there came the realization that Tsumago is a place where his life links with that of ancestors. Despite the fact that he lives in Canada, Shimazaki subsequently made several more trips to Tsumago. Observing the many foreigners visiting Tsumago, and hoping to assist in Tsumago's internationalization, he proposed the publication of a book of watercolour paintings of the town and its environs with accompanying commentaries in Japanese, English and Chinese. He has previously published a similar book on Kyoto. The Tsumago Preservation Foundation united with the Nagiso Town Office to bring this idea to fruition.

Originally it was intended that several people would write the commentaries, but eventually the task fell to me alone. But I was not really alone for I was working with Shimazaki's warm and beautiful watercolours which provided both inspiration and direction. Gazing at the pictures prompted many thoughts and I took up my pen. The results remain to be judged by others.

I only wish my commentaries did justice to the paintings. It will be my greatest pleasure if this book triggers people's interest in travelling to Nagiso and is used as a guidebook to explore Tsumago and environs. I would like to conclude my remarks by thanking Shimazaki Hiroshi for giving me the opportunity to experience the satisfaction of working towards the completion of this project.

Tohyama Takashi
Curator/Director, Nagiso Town Museum


© 2003 Hiroshi Shimazaki